How To Surf With Emma Demaine
Perseverance is key
Although the waves went over my head sometimes, I still got up and wanted to try again! I think I have always been like that always wanted to push through. Your first time is really hard to stay on the board - you just slip off in seconds. When you get into it you just think how it will feel if you can do it properly and that motivates you to get back on! It hurts if you hit the water too hard, but what I don’t like is when you get waves that are over your head because it all goes in your eyes. The secret is just practice like skiing or riding a bike.
It’s a social solo sport
I started when I was eight when I was on holiday in Portugal with my parents. There were a lot of kids older than me and I just joined in. I don’t have any brothers or sisters, which might be why I loved it. I learned off them - they’d show me what they could do, and then I’d show them my moves. I love seeing the same people when I go back, I still keep in touch with a few.
It’s a total workout
It is all about balance so it’s good for your core. Usually I surf for two or three hours at a time so it’s also good for stamina because you need the strength to be able to keep going. That’s what I love about it - when you come back you sleep so well because you are so tired. I love fish so when I’ve been out all day, I go to this lovely restaurant on the beach. I always love grilled sea bass with rice and veggies it is so good. Then I never go without ice cream. I love coconut… or chocolate!
Find your corner of the world
I’ve been surfing in the south of France, Italy, and in Corsica, but I go on holiday to Portugal every year. The wind is fantastic so the waves are crazy! I’ve never surfed in Scotland [laughs] it is a bit too cold! I suppose if you wore a wetsuit you would be fine but I am used to having the sun on my back! If I could surf anywhere it would be Mauritius! I don’t know what the waves are like there but my friend goes there just about every year. It looks like paradise!
The ultimate escape
I love the feeling when you get on your board. The wind just hits you and you are just waiting for one wave to go over. You just don’t think of anything and it is just total like escaping. It’s like you are by yourself in a desert and you just like fly away, there’s nobody around you. I just go out there and like I feel like I am a totally different person. Even if people are surfing with you, everyone’s doing their own thing. It’s paradise.